Travel Insights-EgyptJordon-Part-1
- Satish Jayaprakash
- Jun 7, 2024
- 12 min read
Updated: Jun 17, 2024
Following my father's passing in 2021, I continued to grapple with the emotional impact of his death. By August 2022, my health deteriorated, leading me to cancel a scheduled journey to Thailand with friends. The confluence of these events significantly affected my mental and emotional well-being. In early 2023, I underwent gallbladder surgery. Upon recuperation, I resolved to break free from the relentless negative thoughts that had plagued me. At that point, my wife proposed a vacation to Egypt. Collaboratively, we embarked on researching the trip's details, including the itinerary, expenses, schedule, and other relevant aspects. Preferring to plan the trip ourselves rather than engage an agency, we find the planning process enhances the travel experience.
We initially planned a 16-day trip to Egypt, Israel, and Jordan, but we had to drop Israel due to time constraints and added costs. We stuck with Jordan and Egypt plan and booked flights from Bengaluru to Cairo , Cairo to Aqaba-Jordon, Aqaba,-Jordon back to Mumbai. Found budget hotels via booking.com which allows you not pay upfront but at the hotel, so you can save on your credit card currency exchange charges and pay in local currency. Started packing my stuffs in the new backpack that I had purchased for my Thailand trip, meanwhile planning the day wise itinerary, noting down important places , special food and culture. Jordon had a interesting pass called "Jordon Pass" for tourists which could not only save good amount in your Visa charges (At least 50$) , but also on entry fees for multiple tourists entry points (Another 50$). We then applied for visas using the "Atlys" app, It was such a smooth experience and will surely be using this app for all by future visas. Then comes most important Travel insurance for all three of us me, my wife and Son.
On the day of our departure, we boarded the flight from Bengaluru to Cairo. We landed at around 2 PM. After immigration, we purchased a new SIM card with a good data plan at the airport. Then we took a taxi to the Castle Hostel, which is owned by Mrs. Radwa, one of the very few Jews in Egypt. The hostel is in the center of New Cairo, just a short walk from the Nile River. After a quick chat with the staff, we found out they're big fans of Shah Rukh Khan and watch all the Indian soap operas.
Then we checked into our cozy three-bedded room and immediately freshened up. We then walked to the Egyptian Museum, which closed at 5 PM. We were able to get in just in time. After spending over an hour at the museum, we took a stroll along the banks of the Nile River. While we were walking, we were offered a private boat ride on the river, which we accepted. We ended up seeing a perfect sunset from the boat on the river. We then continued our walk along the riverbank, munching on snacks while the locals watched us. Some of the locals even asked us if we were from India and if we knew Shah Rukh Khan. We had an early dinner at a local KFC, did some planning for the next day, and then returned to the hostel for a deep sleep.
Waking up to a beautiful sunrise, we kicked off our 2nd day with a quick, complimentary breakfast at the hostel as early as 6:30 AM. Afterward, we hailed a taxi to Giza, which cost us 120 Egyptian pounds, roughly around 220 INR (1 EGP = 1.75 to 2 INR). Upon arrival at the entrance, it felt as though the entirety of Europe had descended upon the site. Surprisingly, most of the visitors were accompanied by tour guides and had pre-booked their entry tickets in bulk, leaving only a handful of us in the queue. Luckily, as my Son is a student, we benefited from half-priced tickets, a perk available across Egypt. The 3 tickets cost us around 1700 EGP.
Our first stop was inside the Great Pyramid, having read in other blogs that it becomes stiflingly hot inside during the hotter parts of the day. Standing within this 5000-year-old structure, we couldn't help but ponder the extraordinary efforts of those who built it.
We then explored the other pyramids while dodging scam artists offering guided tours, camel rides, and jeep excursions at exorbitant rates. Some even attempted to confiscate our tickets under the guise of inspection, only returning them if we agreed to their offerings. Nevertheless, after strolling for a few blocks, we did opt for a Horse carriage ride, negotiating it for half the price offered at the entrance.
After capturing some memorable photos and further exploration, we found ourselves near the exit, where the magnificent Sphinx sits facing the East.
After a while, we had to tear ourselves away from the Sphinx and left the Giza Complex around noon. We were totally stoked with our once-in-a-lifetime experience. We grabbed some refreshments nearby and then took a taxi to the Coptic Museum. We found some local restaurants and enjoyed a leisurely Egyptian lunch. This museum is basically about Greek-era art, a unique collection you won't find anywhere else. We explored the different avenues around the Coptic museum and found ancient churches and mosques to check out.
The scorching heat had taken its toll on my son, who had a bad stomach, so we decided to head back to the hostel. Later, I ventured out to explore the local street food scene and ordered a foot-long shawarma roll, picking up some takeaway for my son and wife as well. After a quick review of our plans for tomorrow, we packed our belongings and retired for the night. All in all, our second day in Egypt was truly memorable.
On the third day, we stored our large luggage at the Castle Hotel cloakroom because we had a flight to catch later in the evening. We packed light and took a taxi to the Citadel. The Citadel is a complex that includes a mosque built in the 12th century by Saladin, a Mamluk dynast. The Citadel was later used as a main palace by many other Islamic rulers. The complex also includes a military museum and the Mosque of Muhammad Ali. The Citadel is a great architectural achievement, and from the roof of the complex, we enjoyed a panoramic view of Old Cairo.
We hired a taxi to show us around the Citadel and then drop us off at the Khan al Khalil Market. After shopping for some unique Egyptian perfumes, we had time to spare, so we asked the driver to take us to Al Azhar Park. We spent the rest of the day there, trying to do what the locals do every day. Meanwhile, our next stop was the Abu Simbel Temples, so first we had to get permits. We sent all the necessary information to our next host, who helped us arrange them.
We spent the rest of the day at the Al Azhar Park, trying to do what the locals do every day. Meanwhile, our next stop was the Abu Simbel Temples, so first we had to get permits. We sent all the necessary information to our next host, who helped us arrange them. Around lunchtime, we took a short taxi ride to the nearby Khan Al Khalil market, where most of the Cairo people go for local shopping. At a local restaurant, we found a perfect kosher meal—a vegetarian meal famous in Egypt and the Middle East made with rice and vermicelli. After lunch, we roamed around the market, shopped for souvenirs and other things, and then hired a taxi back to the Cairo Domestic Airport. Aswan, here we come! We landed in Aswan around 8 PM and headed straight to a homestay "Ekadholi Nubian Guesthouse" right next to River Nile , that we had booked through Booking.com. The host Mr Khalid had sent a tuk-tuk to the airport to pick us up and had also arranged a simple dinner for us at the homestay. Aswan is close to the border of Sudan and is quite different culturally and ethnically from Cairo, they call themselves Nubians one of the early inhabitants of northern Sudan and south Egypt region. We had an amazing dinner of sticky rice and chicken and went to bed early.
On the fourth day of our trip, we started the 3.5 hours ride to Abu Simbel at 4:00 AM in a comfortable minivan. The drive to Abu Simbel is a desert ride that should not be missed. The sunrise added even more magic to the experience as we reached our destination around 7:30 AM. Mr Khalid had packed an English breakfast for us. The round-trip cost was around 2000 EGP, and entry to the temples for the three of us was 650 EGP. It was a five-minute walk from the entrance, and as we approached, it was a cinematic experience to see the magical architecture of these temples.
These temples were built in the 13th BCE but were completely submerged underwater in Lake Nasser and were only discovered in the 1800s. After spending a good amount of time at the temple and the lake, we headed back to the main city of Aswan around 1:30 PM and had lunch at McDonald's.
Using the Google Translator, we negotiated with a taxi driver for 500 Egyptian pounds to take us to multiple locations within Aswan and drop us back at the Homestay. Our first stop was at the Unfinished Obelisk, which is basically a stone quarry used to carve out obelisks. Standing at 41 meters tall and weighing 1000 tons, these obelisks were unimaginably shipped almost 300 km on the River Nile to Luxor in the 14th century BCE. Then, we headed to see the Philae Temple, which is a 30-minute boat ride from a nearby village in Aswan. These island temple complexes have been restored and preserved, showcasing beautiful architectures and are among the best places in Aswan.
The taxi driver, Muhammad, waited at the boat ride point until we returned from the Philae Temple tour and headed back to the homestay for another Nubian dinner awaiting us. After dinner, we explored the Nubian market to collect some souvenirs, marking the end of an exhausting travel day. Earlier, Khalid helped us book a car ride from Aswan to Luxor for the next day, which cost around 85 U.S. dollars.
On day five, we had an early breakfast, bid adieu to Mr. Khalid, and set off from Aswan towards Luxor. En route, we stopped at a couple of historic temple complexes: Kom Ombo and Edfu temples. At Edfu, we visited a Crocodile Museum. Our lunch consisted of authentic falafel from a street vendor. We also bought some shirts and hats before continuing towards Luxor City. We reached the Luxor Bella Vista stay, booked through Booking.com, for a three nights stay, another homestay with host Mr. Mustafa and his family.
That evening around 5pm, after loading our luggage and freshening up, we went for a walk near the Nile River banks and had some snacks. Settling down at a good Egyptian restaurant, we enjoyed a great dinner. My son and I also played some snooker too. Back at the homestay with Mustafa's help, we planned our itinerary for the next couple of days, made arrangements for taxis & permits, and then called it a day.
On day six, we visited some of the main attractions in Luxor: Hatshepsut Temple, the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and the Valley of the Nobles. These tombs were built during the reigns of various pharaohs, including Tutankhamun, Amenhotep, and Ramses. Each tomb is unique and requires a lot of time and energy to explore, especially in the hot Egyptian sun. Entrance fees vary depending on the number of tombs you want to see and the amount of time you have available. For us, it cost around 1500 EGP for three.
In the afternoon, we had Italian lunch, although it didn't taste quite Italian. En route, our driver took us to an Alabaster Factory where we gained insights into the skills, usage, and products crafted from alabaster stone. We then relaxed for the remainder of the day at our homestay, taking a leisurely stroll along the banks of the Nile in the evening and exploring the surrounding areas and relaxed back the home stay after a dehydrated day.
On the 7th day, we planned to visit Karnak, the largest religious complex in the world after Angkor Wat in Cambodia. It's a short ride by horse or cab to the center of Luxor city. The entry tickets cost around 550 EGP, and we hired a local registered guide for 170 EGP for an hour.
It's amazing to think about why the people of those times built these structures, which have stood the test of time.
After a comprehensive 2.5-hour tour of the Karnak Temple, we opted for a horse ride to the nearby Luxor Temple, which typically takes around an hour to explore. The entry tickets costed 450 EGP. Following our visit, we had lunch at a nearby KFC. Within walking distance, we discovered the Mummifications Museum and Luxor Main Museum, each offering about an hour's worth of exploration. The admission fee for each museum is 100 EGP per person.
We enjoyed a beautiful sunset by the Nile River, reminiscing about the pathways that were exquisitely crafted, providing us with the most peaceful walk ever.
To cross to the opposite side of the Nile, we boarded the regular ferry, which operates every fifteen minutes and costs 10 EGP for a round trip. Additionally, we visited a local market to purchase some fruits and snacks, indulged in shawarma rolls on the way, and topped up my data plan before heading back to our accommodation for a snooze.
On the eighth day of our trip to Egypt, we kicked off early at 5:30 AM with a hot air balloon ride over Luxor. It was truly breathtaking—I can still vividly recall the takeoff, the panoramic views of Luxor, the sunrise, the Nile, and the mesmerizing sight of tombs and archaeological excavations below. While the hot air balloon ride in Turkey is renowned, this one came in as a close second. After a thrilling two-hour journey, we returned to our homestay to prepare for checkout. The cost of the balloon ride was around 50 USD, and it's worth noting that, like in India, negotiation is customary in Egypt.
Our next stop was Dendera, a less-visited destination due to its distance from Luxor city around 65km. We had previously arranged for a taxi to take us to Dendera. We packed some falafels, bid farewell to Mr. Mustafa and Left Luxor, and embarked on our journey. Dendera proved to be a worthwhile visit, boasting astonishing architecture distinct from the main Luxor and Karnak temples. It's one of the very few temples where the original colors of the paintings on the roofs and walls are still visible, thanks to minimal human intervention. The entry fee was around 100 EGP, and we spent about an hour exploring the site. Later, we asked the taxi to drop us at Dendera bus stand.
In Egypt, travelers have options like Blue Bus, Go Bus, and Otobeas to book bus tickets online. I had made my reservation via Go Bus the previous day. We arrived at the bus stand just in time for departure, but as often happens, the bus was delayed by an hour. To pass the time, I rented a hookah and enjoyed some tea while relaxing.
The journey back to Cairo took around 5 hours along the Eastern Desert road, running parallel to the River Nile for much of the way. We grabbed some quick Dinner at KFC after as we reached Cairo around 9 PM. It felt like coming full circle as we returned to the Castle Hostel where our adventure had begun, with a couple of more nights initially booked.
On Day Nine, with most major destinations already covered, we had a spare day to explore additional places on our list, such as Saqqara, Sharm El Sheikh, Hurghada, and Alexandria. Opting for Alexandria and its charming Mediterranean coastline, we booked a Go Bus for the four-hour journey, departing early at 6 AM to arrive by 10 AM. At the bus stand, we negotiated with a taxi driver to show us the main attractions and provide return transportation, all for 250 EGP.
During the bus ride, we met a group of Indian jewelry designers who work and reside in Egypt, also on a holiday trip to Alexandria. Upon arrival, we encountered the start of Ramadan, with many restaurants closed until evening. Fortunately, we stumbled upon Jewish bakeries where we found something to eat before heading to the Citadel.
We spent time exploring the European-style castle on the shore of Mediterranean Sea and enjoying the climate before visiting the Abu el-Abbas Mosque, the 2500-year-old Roman Amphitheater, and the Great Bath.
Later, we visited one of the oldest libraries in the world, which has been burnt down multiple times and subsequently reconstructed. We embarked on a one-hour guided tour inside the library, where we discovered a vast collection of contemporary books, digital assets, and historical documents. The architecture of the current library, which also serves as the University of Alexandria, was remarkably unique for a library. Walking through its halls, we couldn't help but feel honored to be in a place that once hosted the likes of Ptolemy, Archimedes, Alexander, Strabo, and Julius Caesar. It was a humbling experience to be surrounded by such rich history and knowledge
Next, we explored the Catacombs of Alexandria, where the dead were mummified. These catacombs consist of a series of underground tunnels and compartments. However, they were destroyed after a flood and have never been used again. Walking through these ancient tunnels, we couldn't help but feel the weight of history and the passage of time.
By midday, we bid farewell to our taxi driver and indulged in a relaxing lunch at Papa Jones near a beach. Afterwards, we entered a private Stanley beach near place called Moharam Bek and spent the afternoon unwinding, watching the sun set over the Mediterranean. As evening approached, we made our way back to the vibrant bus stand, one of the most colorful I've ever seen, to catch a bus back to Cairo.
As we returned to Cairo, we couldn't help but feel nostalgic knowing it was our last night in Egypt on this trip. The following morning, we headed to the airport to catch our flight to our next destination, Aqaba, Jordan".
****Check post Travel Insights-EgyptJordon-Part-2 for our further Journey within Jordon****
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